The Gulf of Corinth – History Lessons in the Heat

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Prior to crossing into the Gulf from the Ionian Islands we rendezvoused with Danielle and Kivanc, friends from California that we used to regularly sail with.  They are at the start of their 4th summer season sailing in the Med on their monohull, Sea Bee and it was great to catch up with them and hear of their experiences over the last few years.  

After a couple of days buddy boating I felt sad when they lifted their anchor at first light and sailed away towards Italy.

We met a cruiser when we first arrived in Greece who advised us to take our time traveling through the Gulf of Corinth as it has some hidden gems.  It also has the added advantage of not attracting the charter boat crowds. In the end, we spent two weeks and could happily have spent longer.

The Gulf of Corinth is a deep inlet of the Ionian Sea which separates the Peloponnese from western mainland Greece.  The Rio-Antirro Bridge connects the two, which prior to its opening in 2004 was only accessible by ferry.  We were stunned when we got our first glimpse of the bridge; an engineering marvel that could easily rival the Golden Gate Bridge yet we’d never heard of it.  As we were sailing under the bridge our odometer registered 3,000 nautical miles sailed since leaving La Rochelle in February. A milestone. 

Shortly after passing under the bridge, the town of Nafpaktos came into sight with its picture perfect Venetian port and medieval castle sitting like a crown above the town.  

The port is tiny and mainly filled with local fishing boats, but there was a good anchorage just beyond the harbor walls which enabled us to enjoy the panorama of this pretty town.  

Starting early to try and beat the heat, we walked up to the castle through the five levels of fortification extending from the sea to the summit.   Not having done a lot of uphill walking for a while I was happy that my legs could still handle the elevation. 

We spent an enjoyable couple of hours walking around the site, reading the information boards and immediately forgetting what we had just read.  Call me a philistine but Byzantine, Dorian, Mycenaean, Hellenistic…it’s all Greek to me!

What we won’t forget is the view from the top.  Overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, the crystal clear water, the pretty harbour and Dreams at anchor patiently awaiting our return.  The view alone was worth the walk uphill in the heat.

I’ll also remember Nafpaktos for Mike’s first visit to a Greek barbershop! A quick look on Google Maps, showed that the barbershop had decent reviews, so spontaneously Mike walked in gesticulating that he’d like a haircut.  I left him to it and when we met up a little later was surprised find a very shorn husband. Apparently whatever the barber asked him in Greek, Mike responded with a thumbs up and an enthusiastic smile.  The result was the shortest hair he’s probably had since childhood, an extremely trim beard and a ton of gel. It wasn’t a bad look to be fair and at 12€, not a bad deal. I still wonder how much the locals pay for a short back and sides though. Probably not 12€.

Moving on from Nafpaktos to Galixidi, a town with a rich maritime history and lots of charm.  

In the 1800s Galixidi was one of the top two ship building cities in all of Greece which declined with the arrival of steam powered ships.  The well preserved captains mansions hint at its grand past with their colorful facades, stone balconies and old ship figureheads.

We secured a spot on the town quay and were able to hop on and off of Dreams without a dinghy ride which meant we could go to dinner dressed in something other than salt encrusted shorts for a change.  Simple pleasures.

We rented a car and drove to the ancient site of Delphi for more history lessons. Considered by the ancient Greeks to be the centre of the world and the site of the Temple of Apollo, it definitely earns its ancient stripes, having been built in the 8th century BC.  It’s hard to get your head around the fact that something as elaborate as this was being built while at the same time in England, people were living in roundhouses made of mud and twigs. 

Our stay in Galixidi was extended due to high winds and forecasted thunderstorms but I was more than happy to stay for longer.

When I walked to the main square to buy groceries, I enjoyed observing traffic chaos as cars stopped in the middle of the narrow cobblestone streets to chat to family or friends.  

On the nights we ate out at the local tavernas that lined the harbour front, almost every passing car would slow down, toot their horn and call out a greeting to the families running the tavernas.  Always a wave and a smile before moving on.

We chatted at length with the son working in the chandlery who apologized his Dad wasn’t there to answer our questions because he was at the bakery preparing the bread for the next morning.  Turns out that he and his Dad ran the chandlery and the bakery while his mum and sister ran two small hotels.

This quiet relaxed little town got under my skin and I didn’t really want to move on, even when we could.  

Next up…the Corinth Canal.