Busy doing nothing for a change

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Since arriving in Greece a little over 3 weeks ago we have finally been able to slow down and it feels good.  It feels really good. 

Because we are traveling on our boat we have been able to check into Greece on a crew list rather than our passports which allows us to stay in the country for up to 6 months with a few easy to abide by conditions.  

We knew before arriving that this was a possibility, but after extensive research we realized that being granted this status would be determined purely on the mood of the port official on duty the day we checked in.  

We didn’t want to get our hopes too high but with the days growing long, the breeze blowing warm and the crystal clear waters tantalising us to swim, the  thought of rushing through Greece just as we were on the cusp of summer was disheartening.

After our months of constantly being on the go, I was starting to feel like a criminal on the run.  Never staying in one place long enough for the Schengen clock to catch me. 

We were already pushing up against our 90 day Schengen limit and without the “crew in transit” status, we’d have to get to Turkey as soon as possible or risk an EU overstay penalty.

Fortunately on the day we checked in, Mike was assigned a friendly port agent who reviewed all our paperwork, asked lots of questions, and then happily processed our documents giving us “crew in transit” status. 

And relax!

Since then we have moved slowly around the stunning Ionian Islands.  Staying for multiple nights in one place and sometimes only moving 5 miles to our next destination. It’s bliss.  It’s everything we had dreamt of during all the years we saved and planned for this life.  Friends and family ask us how long we might spend in the Ionian region and we have to pinch ourselves as we say “not sure, maybe a few more weeks, maybe the whole summer, we’ll just take it day by day”.

The Ionian’s are a string of seven main islands off the west coast of mainland Greece.  With a strong Italian influence due to the Venetian Rule from the 12th – 18th centuries, sometimes we have to remind ourselves we are in Greece and not Italy as we look up at the hillside towns surrounded by cypress trees.

Unlike other island groups in Greece, the Ionion’s for the most part are mountainous and green and we have been struck by their sheer scale. 

Of the seven islands, so far we have sailed around four; Lefkada, Meganisi, Ithaca and Kefalonia.  We have enjoyed mostly being on anchor in quiet bays rather than going into busy ports, but when we crave civilization we are never far from a village or a taverna.

A couple of favorite stops so far have been Polis Beach on Ithaca and Fteri Beach on Kefalonia.

Polis Beach was a nice quiet, protected bay with ancient olive groves spread over the surrounding hillsides.  A steep 20 minute walk up to the small village of Stavros gave us enough exercise to justify coffee and cake.

A further 20 minute walk beyond Stavros village was quite honestly one of the best restaurants I have ever been to in my life, Myrtia.  It was so good we went back 2 nights in a row.  Everything about it was outstanding.  I would happily return to Ithaca just to eat there again.  

After dinner, the walk back to the beach was good for our digestion and it was downhill all the way.  

Back at Dreams we were serenaded to sleep by a herd of goats bleating, the bells around their necks ringing as they wandered along the shoreline all night. 

Fteri Beach features quite high on several Best Beaches in the World lists and rightfully so.  Its stunning.  

Sheer limestone cliffs silt the water a beautiful glacial blue, but there was nothing glacial about this water which in June was a wonderful 29 degrees.

We came for one night and left after four, only because we were running out of fresh food.  

Accessible only by boat or a 45 minute walk on a rough goat track, it never got too busy. Although I’m sure in July and August it might be a different experience. We had the company of a couple of super yachts which provided our entertainment as we watched the crew running around attending to their guests every need.  

But for two nights we had this magical place all to ourselves. What a place to be for the summer solstice and a full moon.