Aside from being a good spot to take a break, we’d decided to stop at Bilbao in order to see the Guggenheim museum. Back in the 90’s Bilbao was struggling with increased poverty and social economic problems due to the decline in mining and industry. Then along came the Guggenheim’s who wanted a museum presence in Europe but didn’t feel the need to add to the already established cultural centers like London or Paris. The people of Bilbao lobbied hard to get the attention of the planning committee and won. Fast forward twenty five years and Bilbao is a city thriving on tourism.
Before visiting the museum we did a 2 hour walking tour to learn a little about the city. But before that, we fortified ourselves with fresh hot sugary churros from a churreri, perfectly situated where the tour groups meet in front of the Arriaga theatre.
When we started the tour at 10 am the city was asleep. The only signs of life were the street cleaners and florists setting up their stalls at the market alongside the river. Come noon people started spilling onto the streets, into the cafes and bars. The city was waking up.
In Plaza Nueva old men examined each others stamp collections and young children swapped collectible cards in a decades long Sunday tradition.
There was something else going on too. Large groups of farmers in traditional rural dress sang and played their way through the streets and squares. I later found out they were gathering for the festival San Blas, the Christian martyr who is reputed to possess the power to cure sore throats. A saint of sore throats. Who knew?
In Plaza Nueva we were quick to swoop on a table that became available at one of the pintxos bars and I popped inside to order some of the traditional finger food that was on display. Pintxos are the Basque equivalent of Spanish tapas and so with a smile and the little Spanish I knew, I began ordering. As the gruff barman ungraciously loaded them onto a plate I really wasn’t sure what I was choosing. It’s a good thing we are adventurous eaters!
We took a post lunch walk along the river to the Guggenheim museum. Designed by Frank Gehry it’s a work of art in itself. Infact if I’m honest, the design and architecture of the building was of more interest to me than the artwork on display inside.
In addition to the impressive building I was pleased to see the Puppy at the entrance whose sheer size can only be appreciated when you see it in relation to the surrounding buildings. Despite it being winter the puppy was in bloom and had the faint whiff of spring.
One unexpected sight of interest was the Vizcaya Bridge across the Ibaizabal estuary in Getxo, very close to the marina. Built in the 1890’s it was the first bridge in the world to carry people and traffic on a gondola suspended high above the passing ships. We didn’t need to cross to the other side but couldn’t resist a round trip just to experience this unique mode of transport.
We enjoyed our 48 hours in Bilbao. It’s a city with an industrial past that’s writing a new chapter.
Never having been to Bilbao, thank you for taking us on a walk with you. The gondola bridge is fascinating and being lunchtime here, your Pintxos and glass of red wine make my mouth water. And who knew about the large green puppy ready to burst out with Spring. Take care. Jack
Yet another great commentary of your adventure. While our stay in Bilbao was much shorter, our take of the Guggenheim was similar, i .e., building’s architecture vs art exhibited.
Look forward to reading more.
Your writing has me feeling like I got to stroll and enjoy the city alongside you. But I didn’t get any of the tapas or wine!😊😊. I love the huge chia pet in front of the museum. What a wonderful start to your explorations.
Liked the commentary and pictures. The gondola bridge looks awesome.
Thank you for the update.