Otzias, Kea to Megali Ammos, Skiathos – 118.6 NM | 23h:22m
Today looked to be a great weather window to push on through to the Sporades Islands. One long day with the predicted winds either behind us or on our beam, so we went for it. Our first overnight sail since 2024, we felt adventurous again!
The day started with light winds which was perfect, we were able to take care of some chores while underway and I cooked a chicken tagine to have for dinner tonight so that it was ready to reheat and serve.
Once we passed mainland Greece and started moving up the south eastern coast of Evia island we noticed the abundance of windfarms – an indication we were going to get some big wind no matter what the forecasts showed us.
Sure enough as we got closer to the first cape, the wind picked up and we adjusted our course to give us a little more distance from land. We already had one reef in the main and jib but cautiously put the second reef in so Dreams didn’t feel overpowered and she ripped along.
There were no other sailboats to be seen, just cargo ships. Refreshingly, all the ships that were passing us adjusted their course to give us more space. Boats under sail have the right of way but in our experience the big ships do not always adhere to this, either through bullishness or simply not seeing us, so it was pleasing to see their bearings alter and to know we didn’t have to play chicken with the big boys.
Just before sunset we approached our final cape on Evia island which brought another increase in wind and so our third reef was put in the sails. This is a rare event, in-fact many people with Fontaine Pajots have removed their third reef believing it is unnecessary. We were happy to have it.
Dinner was scoffed down and at 21:00 we began our watch schedule; 3 hours on / 3 hours off with me getting the first opportunity to rest while Mike manned the helm.
I couldn’t sleep. It’s been almost two years since we did a watch schedule overnight and I had forgotten what it sounds and feels like after dark when you are below decks and the boat is crashing through the waves. Every bang and crash feels like the boat is going to break apart and every time there’s quiet I listen for evidence that Mike is still on board and hasn’t fallen over the side. I know these thoughts aren’t rational, I trust the boat and I trust Mike. I just need to get used to this again.
Less than 30 minutes into my catastrophizing I could feel the boat getting really slammed and Mike called for my help to take the sails down. Things had got a little too exciting with gusting winds changing direction every few minutes and strong currents. Time to motor for a few hours until this passed.
My watch started at 12:00, I had managed to sleep for about an hour. We were now past the main capes of Evia island and in an open stretch of water. With no sails up all I needed to do was look out for traffic and keep us on course. The Milky Way splashed across the sky like a spill of glitter dust. I’ve missed looking up at the night sky.
When 03:00 rolled around and sleeping beauty woke from slumber the winds were perfect to get the sails up again but strong enough to still need the third reef. I suggested to Mike that I skip my break and instead be on hand to help. He didn’t protest.
The next few hours kept us busy with constant sail adjustments to harness the 17 – 26 knot winds pushing Dreams towards the Sporades islands in the early dawn light.
Towards the end of the sail within the space of 10 minutes two things broke; the clutch for the jib furling line and the cleat for the jib leech line, ripping off the leech line cover as it broke. With no chandlers on the island of Skiathos we are going to have to get creative to jury rig some fixes.
Fortunately the bay where we had chosen to anchor was protected and calm so getting the anchor set was quick and easy despite having to find a clear patch of sand in between the seagrass.
Once everything was secured my intention was a quick cuppa and then a few hours of sleep but Mike being Mike started getting his tools out and figuring out how to fix the broken things. He dismissed me when I told him he needed to sleep. It was only when he fell down the helm steps and I ordered him to cease and desist that he sheepishly downed tools and admitted that he was actually quite tired.
Welcome back to boat life!
Oh Toni. This sounds so familiar. My heart rate increased, just reading it.
Susan, I have so many fond memories of exciting times on Rapture. Can be challenging but you certainly feel alive!
Fantastic ! Wish you both well
Glad you’re able to get back to your explorations. Have a lovely season.